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Luxor is often called the world’s greatest open-air museum, but that comes nowhere near describing this extraordinary place. Nothing in the world compares to the scale and grandeur of the monuments that have survived from ancient Thebes.
The old capital of Egypt, Thebes, was on the West bank of the Nile. That is where most of the ruins and tombs are.
The modern city of Luxor is on the East bank. That area has the train and bus stations, most of the hotels and restaurants, some museums, tourist shops and so on. Most visitors (and almost all tour groups) stay on the East bank and travel across for the tourist sites but, in recent years, there has been an increase in hotels on the West bank and many independent travellers stay there.
However, this small port is not without attractions of its own – it boasts mineral springs and special sands that have given it an international reputation as a centre of therapeutic tourism. It is also a major water sports and scuba diving destination, for cruise passengers eager to indulge in more active pursuits.
Safaga’s excellent beaches, its attractive islands and bay, and the small town surrounding the port are also a draw.
Luxor Travel Tips
1. Start sightseeing early: Not only will you beat the heat, you’ll also get many of the temples and tombs to yourself!
2. Watch for the “guides”: Many of the security guards in the temples and tombs will try to “show you around” and then expect money. Tell them immediately you do not have money if you do not want to be bothered.
3. But sometimes taking the guards up on their offers pays off: Often they will let you go into closed off areas or sneak a picture. Just expect to pay some cash!
4. Haggle and Bargain Hard: This is Egypt, and haggling is the name of the game. Most sales touts will try to rip Westerners off at triple the cost.
5. Avoid visiting Egypt during the Summer: We visited Luxor in November, and the warm weather was bearable. I can’t imagine the heat in August. The upside to visiting in the summer is extremely cheap prices! Most of the sites raise their fees at the end of October for tourist season. If you do visit in summer, I suggest splurging for a hotel with a pool.
6. Get to Luxor NOW: Some of my extended family visited Egypt about 15 years ago. It sounds like most of the sites were crowded, but since the Arab Spring Revolution in 2011, Egypt’s tourism industry has plummeted. While it is on the rise now, we still had many of the tombs and temples to ourselves in 2018! Beat the crowds.
